But today, our focus is his first project for perfume Shiseido, fragrance 1981, long removed from production Nombre Noir.
Meet Nombre Noir perfume shop on the shelf - like return to the past quarter of a century. I was lucky to find it in one of the shops network Roman Castelli, on Via Frattina. Boxes worn unopened cellophane wrappers standing in a dusty corner of the lower windows, displaced from the center of the new favorites of the perfume world - glamorous "Chanel", bleskuchimi "Dior" and the new "Dolce & Gabbana" and "Ferret". Anthracite box, which bore the black letters «Nombre Noir» because of the lack of advertising support sold with a 30 percent discount, no testers. However, the perfume was gone - only daytime perfume (splash and spray). But for lovers of creative talent Serge Lyutena this box if unknown to the general public the first picture of Salvador Dali or written by hand of young Tchaikovsky's first score.
Shiny black octagonal bottle looks like a beam sword hilt from "Star Wars." He holds a rich and hearty flavor - darkly dense wood with floral and fruity heart, hidden under the black smoke screen. After a dramatic start smoky whiskey, strongly suppressing attempts bergamot and jasmine survive appears sooty black rose, almost devoid of floral sweetness. Rose was once the wine and burgundy, but it's worth a second year in a bottle of whiskey in prodymlennom bar and, of course, long since dried up. It is a couple of dried fruit - apricots or prunes - in a cedar box out of Lapsang Souchong,.
A little bit about the chemistry of: floral tone with a hint of apricot leather gives oil osmanthus, jasmine portrayed gedionom and wood-pink chord designated by a molecular damascone.
If you can imagine such a souvenir, like a rose flower, whose petals are made from prunes, and the leaves are made of black leather or rubber, you imagine the image of this fragrance, dark, smoky and rich.
To give some guidance to Nombre Noir perfume in a familiar landscape, imagine speculative Mitsouko, in which part of the peach replaced by smoked rose, or Cabochard, whose bitter flowers are replaced by a rose, and the skin is depicted half prunes and smoked tea. So could smell the black shoe polish, if anyone would have thought to refine the product flavoring.
Wear this fragrance is recommended for women in the image of Paloma Picasso, which replaced the red gloves on black leather, with lipstick to match. Nothing bright: dark tones and deep blacks. Mourning and gothic, unspoken love, restrained feelings deep inside, general leather-chypre generosity and proud bearing women at the tomb, which laid a loved forever. This opens a completely different side of the personality of Serge Lutens, which we know from the colorful Moroccan perfume reasons.
Author: M. Fish