To be an expert in fashion - is to understand that there are no small parts, and that sometimes they, detail, determine the image as a whole. And no matter how welcomed in this field experiments, rules and canons rarely canceled. With all the sensitivity of women to style some of the details of the image gentleman men known better. Especially such connoisseurs as Bernhard Rёttsel, fashion expert and author of "Gentleman". In it, he writes about how to dress in full compliance with the style that symbolizes civilized man.
In the process of selecting a shirt you must pay attention to its color, style, and other nuances to consider a reason and a place where a man is going to wear it, otherwise it runs the risk of looking ridiculous. But the most important thing afloat, as always, is simple: good shirt - one that sits well!
Sleeve Length
The length of the sleeve should be paid to understanding given the fact that its final size, he gets only after the fourth-fifth wash. Consequently, the new shirts are no clear-length sleeves, collar girth nor accurate. A good seamstress always adds material to the shrinkage of the product to and after several washings shirt sitting perfectly.
When the correct length sleeves, cuff covers the wrist, reaching the big toe joint. Forearm should not be visible not only at the brush is lowered down, but when the arms are in the folded position. When driving, lifting hands sleeve is pulled into the sleeve of his jacket. A collar should be tight enough to arm and slipped too far down.
Quite common following error: shirt with too short sleeves worn under a jacket with long sleeves too. Cuffs disappear under his jacket, and it seems that under it - short-sleeved shirt. If the sleeves are too long at the shirt, even a well-fitting jacket looks too big.
When the shirt and jacket are the right length, the edge of the cuff will peek around half an inch (1 cm), although some prefer a little more and release. There is a risk that the sleeves of his jacket budt look too short in relation to its length, but since jacket never worn without a shirt, it is not evident and can look good. Cuff protruding from his jacket sleeve extends visually hand, provided that the correct length of a jacket sleeve. A man with short arms can profitably use this effect.
Collar
If the outer edge of the shirt collar is not covered by the lapel, it usually means that the collar is not perfectly tailored. Harmonious relationship between the collar shirt, tie and jacket is broken, if the material of the front board shirt peeking between the shirt collar and lapel. Of course, this problem rarely occurs in the double-breasted jacket and never - in a well-cut suit.
The outer edge of the shirt collar and the ends should be clearly hide behind his lapel. Shirt collar with elongated sharp ends hardest to cover up the lapel, unless the jacket is not sewn adjacent and high neckline. "Broken" collar is usually elegant, because it is always covered by the outer edge of the lapel, even if the jacket is not too good cut.
Shirt collar is too narrow if it overlaps the neck properly tailored jacket lapel. Unfortunately, many manufacturers blindly follow fashion when it comes to the width of the jacket-gate. However, British and Italian companies, strictly observe the traditions, are well aware of the important role played by the width of the collar and that this detail, unlike all others, should never be subjected to the vagaries of fashion. This is particularly important because if a narrow collar can often be seen on tie back of the neck, and should be avoided.
A shirt collar, if correct width, is not covered by the jacket on the rear side of the neck, provided that the jacket is sewn well. In this regard, it is worth mentioning that cut business suits collars designed for well-fitting shirt collar. Therefore, the position of the collar of his jacket in checked on his relationship with the collar of his shirt. As a result, should buy a shirt with a perfectly tailored collar before you buy or order the jacket.
Shirt collar should be sized so that the node is not lifted Tie the ends of the collar over the breast. They must remain in the breast even when you turn your head. The ends of the collar can then be lifted and when the tie is too large. Men are advised to wear a node that is convenient to them, and in this case when buying a shirt should wear a favorite tie, so you can try it in the store with her.
Collars really good shirts are always tailored large enough to sit well whether wide or narrow collar fashion dictates. Whoever persists, buying shirts with small, narrow collars should not wear heavy jacquard ties.
Shirt collar should be tailored so that the tie was exactly in the middle of the top of the triangle and not slipping below. In this example, the node is not Tie fills the angle between the ends of the collar in its upper part. If it is not explained properly tie a tie, it is better not to buy a shirt, with which it happens. Unable to create a perfect harmony between a tie and a shirt with a collar like that.
Tie knot should sit exactly in the triangle between the edges of the collar and stay there no matter buttoned the top button collar shirt in or not. Many men have a habit of not just leave it unbuttoned button, but do not tighten the tie tightly. It is a miserable half-measure: one who does not like ties, should not wear them, but instead just leave the neck open.
Based on the book by Bernhard Rёttselya "Gentleman"
Learn more about the book